Dramatic Afton Canyon a hidden oasis in the Mojave

Afton Canyon, Calif., between Baker and Barstow, is known as "the Grand Canyon of the Mojave."
(MIKE MILLER/SPECIAL TO THE LAS VEGAS REVIEW-JOURNAL)

By Margo Bartlett Pesek
Las Vegas Review-Journal

One of those hidden beauty spots that delight desert lovers, scenic Afton Canyon lies off Interstate 15 between Baker and Barstow in Southern California.

Also known as “the Grand Canyon of the Mojave,” the rugged gorge carved by the intermittently flowing Mojave River is best suited to cool-season visitation. It appeals to off-highway explorers, campers, horsemen, rock hounds, photographers and wildlife watchers.

Follow I-15 south from Las Vegas toward Barstow. About 20 miles south of Baker, watch for a series of turnoffs, starting with Rasor Road, which accesses a nearby off-highway vehicle area. Keep driving on I-15, next passing Basin Road. Watch for the turnoff to Afton Canyon onto a graded road.

From the freeway, the road runs about 3½ miles to a small campground established near the Mojave River and the Southern Pacific Railroad tracks, which follow the water through the canyon. A sturdy railroad bridge spans the river near the campground, carrying trains that rumble across the desert several times a day — and night. The road may be used by all but the lowest-slung vehicles as far as the campground. Beyond the campground, explore marked routes using high-clearance vehicles, preferably with four-wheel drive.

The region is a complex of public and private lands administered by the Bureau of Land Management as Afton Canyon Natural Area. Because of its oasislike setting, running water, thick vegetation and wide variety of birds and animals, it has been designated an area of critical environmental concern. Efforts are ongoing to enhance the natural vegetation by eradicating exotic plant species and to control damage done by indiscriminate vehicle use.

Vehicle access is restricted to a few routes, including historic Mojave Road, a rough, four-wheel-drive trail beloved by off-roaders. Mojave Road follows in the footsteps of prehistoric native nomads, mountain men, early explorers and military expeditions. Other old trails into nearby side canyons may now be traveled only on foot or horseback. Although hiking, backpacking and primitive camping are encouraged, campfires outside of the campground area are restricted.

The modest campground provides several sites, available on a first-come basis for a fee of $6 per night. There is a 14-day limit. Each site is equipped with a parking pad, table and grill. Pit toilets are centrally located. Drinking water must be trucked to the site, so many campers bring their own, at least a gallon per person per day. Use a self-contained camp stove or bring firewood. You’ll need bags for disposing of camp refuse at home.

Because the campground lies well within the canyon, the night sky is very dark, except during bright moonlight. The site is popular for stargazing and watching celestial events such as meteor showers.

The Mojave River is one of those elusive desert streams that course underground most of their length. Along this part of the watercourse, however, the river and flooded streams have scoured the landscape down to bedrock and the water runs over the rocky surface.

Scenery in Afton Canyon is quite colorful and dramatic. The birds and desert wildlife drawn to the water and vegetation delight observers and photographers. Observation is most rewarding early or late in the day, also the best times for photography. You’ll want to bring your camera, spotting scope, binoculars and field identification guides.

The surrounding area is open to seasonal hunting under state regulations, but only with limited types of firearms and ammunition. Certain county and federal regulations apply. Hunters must be very careful about shooting on private land, which requires permission. No firearms may be discharged near the campground. Recreational shooting is not allowed within Afton Canyon Natural Area.

Margo Bartlett Pesek’s column appears on Sundays.

The Mojave Road - An Unexpectedly Peaceful Family Drive

Over at Expedition Portal, Marianne Hyland shares a great write-up and photos from her family's trip over the Mojave Road. It's a nice reminder of why so many of us love spending time out in the East Mojave.

Mojave Desert by Jeep and by Foot 2010

We just ran across some outstanding photos of a trip over part of the Mojave Road in April. The photos include Afton Canyon, Spooky Canyon, Kelso Dunes, the Lava Tube, a desert tortoise, and wildflowers.

We received permission to share the link here, so you can enjoy them too.

Thank you, Eddie at JK-Forum.com, for sharing your trip with all of us!

Canyon is only place to see Mojave River year-round

GREAT VIEW: Afton Canyon is the one place you can see the Mojave River above ground all year long.

May 10, 2010
by the Bureau of Land Management
Victorville Daily Press

Some know it as “The Grand Canyon of the Mojave.” Others simply call it Afton Canyon. And it’s the only place where the Mojave River flows above ground all year long.

The canyon’s surface water makes it unique in the Southern California desert. Known for its dramatic geological formations, Afton is an ideal location for bird and wildlife viewing.

The area is also popular for hiking, hunting, camping, rock hounding, horseback riding and vehicle touring.

Wildlife viewing is best during early morning and evening hours. In the canyon, birds tend to gather in thick vegetation. Along washes and streams, vegetation is critical for wildlife food and shelter. Many routes in Afton Canyon have been closed to vehicle travel to protect these wildlife habitats.

Early Western explorers passing through this area included Jedediah Smith, Kit Carson and John Charles Fremont.

The route following this road, known as the Mojave Road, is a rugged four-wheel-drive scenic tour running from Fort Mojave on the Colorado River near Needles to Camp Cady near Harvard Road.

Afton Canyon Natural Area is located 37 miles northeast of Barstow along Interstate 15 between the Afton Road and Basin Road exits.

Afton Canyon is designated as an Area of Critical Environmental Concern to protect plant and wildlife habitat and to preserve scenic values of the riparian area within the canyon.

Within this Area of Critical Environmental Concern, routes are posted with “Open Route” markers.

Routes have been selected to allow access to the area and to the Mojave Road while preserving stream-side environments. Use of all vehicles is permitted only on designated open routes. Thunderstorms can result in flash floods in canyons and washes.

Tell a friend or neighbor where you are going and when to expect your return.

Bring sufficient water, food, clothing, tools and first aid supplies for your activity.

Another Great Trip Report

"Citizen Grouch" provides another great trip report with photos. And we note that these two latest reports include sightings of the infamous Mojave Green rattlesnake, so make sure you are alert to their presence (and all other venomous creatures) when you're out there.

May Trip on the Mojave Road

As usual in spring, there are a lot of folks out on the Mojave Road. We ran across a blog post about the Perry family's recent trip. They took some great photos. Enjoy!

What you might encounter along the way...

We ran across this blog with some wonderful photos of the smaller creatures you are likely to encounter if you make stops on your journey along the Mojave Road.